What to expect from St Vincent as it reopens on Newcastle Quayside

The Newcastle Quayside restaurant is finally back open, three years after it closed due to the pandemic.

It comes from great culinary stock, a stablemate of fellow 21 Hospitality Group restaurants such as Saltwater Fish Company, Cafe 21 and Porterhouse in Fenwick and its Quayside neighbour Broad Chare which all have renowned restaurateur Terry Laybourne at the helm.

While other restaurants were quick to reopen once restrictions were lifted, St Vincent bided its time, but welcomed diners back once again last month with some familiar faces and new recruits front of house.

On a wet Friday night, its buzzing atmosphere provided a warm welcome from the drizzle.

Part industrial-chic with its exposed pipes and bare brick walls and part Parisien bistro with its red booths, elaborate bar, walls peppered with wine bottles and huge urns filled with flowers, it strikes just the right balance between feeling special, yet relaxed.

The menu, which changes seasonally, is a fusion of Italian and French – charcuterie, cheese plates, small plates for grazing and more substantial big plates which offer something a little different to the norm.

We had a trio of small plates to start.

Rabbit’s not a meat you find on many North East menus and it was executed to great effect here in the form of rillettes with rosemary and pickle endive (£11). An earthy, lean meat, it was a great alternative to richer meats, its natural flavour elevated with the kick of vinegar from the pickles.

High quality too with the velvety mound of burrata which pulled into submission beautifully, its smoothness complemented with zingy citrus fruits and fennel pollen (£11.50).

Anchovies are the Marmite of the fish world, but great to see them on the menu – sourced from Cantabria and served simply here with shallots, butter and grilled sourdough, allowing the fillets’ natural flavour to shine. (£9.50)

Next up, we shared one of the big plates and there was certainly enough for two – a satisfyingly chunky hunk of Monkfish tail atop a mound of caponata (£28.50).

The meaty monkfish was good enough to eat on its own, but was paired perfectly with the rich Sicilian stew, a piquant medley of vegetables.

Special mention for the side of Zucchini fritti (£4.50) which we couldn’t resist going back for more – it was a great-sized portion, too. A perfect picky dish.

My pudding choice was a great palate cleanser – a smooth olive oil panna cotta with a Kumquat marmalade that delivered a sharp, tart kick (£9).

Across the table, my friend’s choice of vanilla bean ice cream with black truffle, honey and sea salt (£8) was more divisive – a thumbs up from her. Not so much from me, but interesting to have your tastebuds challenged and this is certainly food worth talking about.

On to the wines, and it was possibly one of the best wine lists I’ve seen in a while.

Manager Matt was really knowledgeable in chatting us through the options and making suggestions that would pair well with the dishes.

Most are from small, independent producers and it’s a great way of introducing your palate to some new favourites.

Take for instance, the Sottoriva Prosecco. A natural, cloudy wine, it’s made in the traditional method with no added yeast or sugar – a refreshing change from the overly sugary Proseccos usually served at bars. A real conversation starter, it’s the kind of drink that really stands out.

So too our dessert wine from Bordeaux: Chateau Petit Vedrines Sauternes with its sweet, honey notes. These are wines with a real story to tell.

Even if you’re not dining, make sure to pop in for a glass or three at one of the window seats and watch the world go by.

Great to see such an asset to the North East firing on all cylinders again.

St Vincent’s location at Live Theatre also makes it ideal for pre-theatre dining.